Turn left on N. 11th to Berry. Be careful how you enter. The door is up the ramp and on 11th. Not around the corner. Large glass panes, enclosing Mason Jar illuminations, brick, long glossy wood tables, and wine. Downstairs–the cocktail room. Dark. A mixologist dreaming of shaking and stirring. Soon a DJ, maybe eventually, a band. The Counting Room in Williamsburg. Open just a couple of months, and bustling on a Tuesday night.
The wine list works. We went straight to the reds, for the night was chilly, ordered French and couldn’t get past. It. Half-bottles are available if you’re unsure or seeking experimentation. What we don’t drink gets chalked up on the board and sold by the glass. (In theory.)
Thiery Puzelat Ko In Cot We Trust 2007 (23/45)
Stinky. Moldy cheese rind. Like mud or swamp earth. It lifts. A pinch of licorice and spice. Savory fruit–Japanese salted plums and cherry–yields acidity. Yum. Not a fan of malbec? Give cot a chance.
Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Granges 2008 (21/42)
Hard cherries and green like lilac. Farm animals, locker room sweat. It’s spring–new branches are green and shooting. Tea leaves and herbaceousness.
Jacques Puffeney Arbois Rouge Pinot Noir 2007 (30/60)
Licorice and cherry fruit. Tannins grip. Let’s order another bottle while it sits for a minute…or two. Sherry. A sweetness that precedes. Medicinal herbs and dried fruit—wine from Jura.
[The Counting Room, 44 Berry Street, Brooklyn, NY 11211]