A short while ago, I attended a Chablis tasting at the Tribeca Rooftop, where I met JR and Nina Battipaglia of Garnet Wines. Seated together at the morning seminar, we chatted through the tasting, which included a bottle from Nathalie & Gilles Fevre, and before leaving, Nina offered to send me some wine. What follows is a few thoughts on the four bottles sent, all of which were sampled, with Suzanne, on Harlem Hill in Central Park.
In 1998, William Fevre sold his Domaine to Henriot Champagne, who also controls Bouchard Pere et Fils, who is now responsible for producing the wines at Fevre. 1998 also saw Domaine Fevre reduce its reliance on new oak, for which many were thankful. And with 12 hectares of Premier Cru and 15.2 hectares of Grand Cru, Domaine Fevre hand picks and lightly crushes, to offer a selection of quaffable, affordable Chablis wines.
Nathalie & Gliles Fevre Chablis 2007 ($17.99)—Steely and minerally with acidity that doesn’t bite the tongue, its zest softened as if with a lashing or a filtering through stones. Flinty, and not wildly complex. Apple fruit with a hint of flowers blossoming–not a bad Chablis for the price.
Nathalie & Gilles Fevre Mont de Milieu 1er Cru 2007 ($27.50)–Super slate-y with honeydew, bosc, and red apple fruit, with a whiff of morel and streamlined acidity. Quite pleasurable for the pence.
Nathalie & Gilles Fevre Fourchaume-Vaulorent 1er Cru 2007 ($29.99)–Aromas of peach, just short of ripe. A seamless silky texture with minerality that arises as it aerates.
Nathalie & Gilles Fevre Les Preuses Grand Cru 2007 ($49.99)–Initially, this bottle screams acidity—citrus acid so powerful that it out-shouts all other notes. Breathing–in, out–it transforms to lemon meringue that’s been whipped to peaks with finely crushed chalk. And finally, there appears lemon fruit, a stream of glacial run off from the mountain, and spring flowers yearning to bloom.