Last week, Suzanne and I dropped in at Veritas, down the street from Moore Brothers on East 22nd Street, to sit at the bar for a couple of by-the-glass wines. And while the bar menu is sweet–the Charred Bread, Honey Truffle Ricotta is divine–we were less drawn to the ten or so glasses of red and white wines on the list, because the cocktail menu, and its bottled ingredients behind the counter, were more compelling to us than this.
Known for its 3,000 bottle list (with 75,000 in the cellar) that shines a light on Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Burgundy, and Bordeuax, Veritas recently reopened with new menu that’s a la carte and accessible. That said, as I perused the pages of vertical vintages that included magnums of Lafite, I was reminded that “accessible” is often defined objectively. Yes, there is a rotating list of bottles available for under $100, but that’s hardly the point of this carefully curated list. And while the bottled offerings are outrageously extensive, it’s a little unfortunate that the glass list does little to represent this.
And so, we sat and sipped, discussing the differences between Charteuse V.E.P. (Vieillissement Exceptionnellement Prolongé), which is long aged in oak casks and intoxicatingly aromatic, and Green Chartreuse–its 132 herbed younger sister—with the tender and David (GM), who engaged Suzanne and I in scents and tastes, and cocktails mixed. Suzanne asked to be surprised by the Charteuse V.E.P., and received it with rye and fresh lemon juice, served neat in a martini class. Me? I slipped into a Sidecar with Calvados, Cointreau, and lemon juice–a full-bodied embrace on a blustery winter night.
[Where: Veritas 43 E. 20th Street, New York, NY 10003]