Last week, Caitlin, Ellen and I met at Edie & the Wolf, an Austrian restaurant/wine bar, on Avenue C, near 7th Street. With an entrance that’s rustic and livened with green herbs, flowers, and grass, the gates of spring were sprung open, revealing the dark wooded interior to Loisaida. Arriving at around seven, to a handful of diners; by eight, there wasn’t a free seat in the house. There’s a menu of shared plates and small plates, and entries, cheese, and dessert, so perhaps it’s more of a restaurant, but there is a bar and a counter with space for a glass or four of Gemischter Satz.
Though warm and inviting, the theme of the interior suffers a slight crowd crisis…a plethora of country-dried flowers and pastoral knick knacks, nautical ropes, soft industrial lighting, and wood worn, like the side of a silo. Grüner Veltliner, Gemischter Satz, Zweigelt, and Blaufränkisch–a majority of the 27 whites and 20 reds come from Austria–a real treat for those who love cool climate vines. And on a warm day in spring, we chose a bottle of rosé: Rosé Messwein 2009, which wasn’t as rocky as we would have preferred, but it was colored pretty pale pink and beachy with a fruit forward palate.
The Gemischter Satz, Schloss Schönbrunn 2008 showed much lighter viscosity than the Gemischter Satz, Christ 2009, and it was paired perfection with every plate that we ordered. Its fine petrol minerality fused with peach skin and stone fruit was made for the Alsatian Flatbreads, sans speck, with cipollini, baby artichokes, and Holzhofer cheese. The Spätzle we loved it served with Hen of the Woods Mushrooms, Fava Beans, and Asparagus. And while the bar looked tempting for a late night of carousing, it’d be a challenge to return for the wine without the pairings.
[Where: Edie & the Wolf, 102 Avenue C, New York, NY 10009]